Friday 26 October 2012

Bali: Sea Temples

Although Indonesia is predominantly Muslim, the main religion in Bali is Hinduism, though it is very much a local variation infused with animist elements. The island is said to have over a thousand temples. This is no exaggeration as there are important temples belonging to the island as a whole, at least three in every village, and most family compounds have their own. In addition, there are little shrines with floral offerings everywhere.

Some of the most important and spectacular of Bali's temples are the sea temples honouring the sea gods. Each sea temple is reputedly visible from the previous one forming a chain around the island. In addition, there are nine directional temples protecting Bali from evil spirits, which are located at auspicious sites from mountainsides to caves and cliff tops.

The 11th century temple Pura Luhur Ulu Watu on the Bukit peninsula in Bali's south is the only temple that is both a sea temple and one of the directional temples. I headed out there last weekend during the three day stopover in Bali I had on my way home and was floored by the beauty of its surroundings.


Pura Luhur Ulu Watu





Gateway flanked by statues of Ganesh, the elephant-headed god


The headland immediately south of Ulu Watu


One of the wildflowers growing near the cliff face. I'm guessing some kind of milkweed, which is an important food source for the larva of some butterflies, particularly the monarch, and there were some spectacular butterflies around.


The headland looking to the north from Ulu Watu




In the distance are a handful of tourists photographing the resident monkeys, but I was intrigued by the forest in the background. At the end of the dry season in the tropics, many flowering trees lose their leaves and burst into flower.  Back home in Brisbane it happens most noticeably with jacarandas and the poincianas.  I don't know what kind of trees these are, but I suspect that in just a few weeks this backdrop could be spectacular.


This young macaque was fascinated by the hole in the fabric.








Temple guardians

On my earlier visit in June, I visited what is probably the most well-known and most frequently photographed of the sea temples. Pura Tanah Lot is said to have been established in the 15th century by a travelling monk called Nirartha. It is built on a group of rocks at the end of a headland, which becomes an island as the tide comes in.




The priests give a blessing signified by a few grains of rice on the forehead in return for a small donation.








Then, on the very next headland, yet another temple Pura Batu Bolong. My fear of heights overruled the temptation to cross the land bridge for a closer look.







Whenever I am lucky enough to return to Bali, I would love to visit more of the sea temples.  There are seven important ones, so that's at least five to add to my bucket list.  And then there are the directional temples...

14 comments:

  1. Hi Marisa, I have just looked at the last few weeks of your posts and really enjoyed sharing your travels in various Asian countries. I reminisced about my holiday in Borneo. Never been to Bali, thought it was spoiled by all the tourists but now I've seen your pics I want to go. Love your blog. cheers, catmint

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    1. I must admit I put off visiting Bali for a long time for the very same reason, but the worst of the tourists are centred around Kuta. Once you head a little further afield, and especially into the countryside, there are some very lovely, relatively unspoiled places.

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  2. I can see why you want to add five sea temples to your bucket list. My favourite shot is the last one. What an amazing natural land formation! I found myself looking at the picture and wondering how wide the bridge was. I can see why you might hesitate to cross. Are the temple builders trying to say something about bravery, I wonder? I am sure I would cross chanting, "Don't look down. Don't look down!"

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    1. If that is what the builders were saying, I definitely failed. Even though it's crazy, I imagine a sudden gust of wind blowing me off my feet, or, being naturally clumsy, that it would be right in the middle of that bridge that I would stub my toe on a rock and go sprawling, following by spiralling, and hopefully, if it has to happen, swimming!

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  3. Oh my Marisa, I absolutely enjoyed this post...I learned so much.
    Loved the beautiful scenery and all the facts about all the interesting sea temples.
    How I now wish I could travel to Bali and experience it all for my self...may be one of these days...thanks for the trip.

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    1. Hope you make it to Bali one day, Virginia, and then you are just a hop, step and a jump from a visit to Brisbane!

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  4. Beautiful place, beautiful photos. I have never been to Bali- loved the "visit". Thanks!

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    1. It's a long way from Texas, Kacky, but definitely worth a visit.

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  5. I have always wanted to go to Bali. Lucky lucky you! Smart gods to have picked such a wonderful place for a temple. Thanks for the mini-vacation. :o)

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    1. The gods definitely have good taste. Perhaps the saying 'location, location, location' didn't start with real estate agents!

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  6. That was a lovely look at the side of Bali that is not normally displayed. Those are very high cliffs - quite amazing - thanks once again for sharing.

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    1. For a relatively small island, there is certainly a wide range of different scenery.

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  7. Amazing photos Marissa. Thanks for showing us all the beauty of these places. Hope you fulfill your bucket list.

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    1. Thanks Ros. We are lucky Bali is so close to Australia. I think I will be a homebody for a bit now, after gallivanting around this year, but I like to think I will get back there one day.

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