Bali: The Temples - Tirta Empul

I visited the holy springs at Tirta Empul on my previous visit to Bali in 2008 (click here to see), but it is such a special place that I was thrilled with the chance to return on my fleeting business trip to Bali last week.

The spring water gushes out into a bathing pool and is reputed to restore youthfulness. I didn't take the plunge like these young devotees, but I must admit to having dabbed a little on my face -- I live in hope!

You don't think they are really a middle-aged couple who have spent too long in the magical spring water, do you?

Steny risking a dunking in pursuit of eternal youth.

Over 90% of the population are Balinese Hindus, a combination of local beliefs and Hindu influences

This distinguished gentleman showed us around the temple.

Some of the elaborate ornamentation inside the temple.

Mixed feelings in Taman Sari

When I was younger and more idealistic, life was so simple: moral issues were black and white, and a happy ending seemed the logical outcome for all deserving parties. Nowadays, a good outcome is often a matter of compromise, and there is frequently a price to pay that can seem harsh and unfair.

Today is my last full day in Jogyakarta, and I find myself liking it more and more. My two big expeditions have been to the temples at Borobudur and Prambaran on the outskirts, but yesterday afternoon I ventured into the heart of the city for a brief visit to the ruined water palace, Taman Sari. The last thing I expected was to come away from the experience feeling deeply moved.

Taman Sari was built between 1758 and 1765 as a pleasure palace for the Sultan of Jogyakarta. The name means beautiful garden.  It was damaged first by war and later by an earthquake. My very first impression was of slight disappointment. The ruined buildings seemed scattered, and some were in poor repair with occasional graffiti. However, after looking through a few of the ruins on my own, I met up with a local who explained the original purpose of the buildings and the plans for the community that lives within the perimeter of the original palace grounds.

Taman Sari is listed  as a tentative World Heritage area, and UNESCO is going to commence a major restoration project over the next 2 years, but to do this, the current residents must be relocated. The settlement is known as Kampung Taman and many of their homes have been built in what was the garden's huge artificial lake. The first families move in about 5 months, and, in all, 254 families will be relocated to apartments 13 km away.

No one is more supportive of preserving historical and culturally significant places than I am, but as I walked through the lanes and streets that will be demolished, there was such a charm and sense of community that I knew that something precious will be lost, even if something wonderful is gained. Kampung Taman is a very artistic community, and they seem to love their gardens and potted plants. It will surely be difficult to adjust to apartment living and the scattering of their friends and neighbours.

Dovecote

Entrance to an underground passageway.

These buildings served as air vents for underground passageways.

One of the Sultan's family's homes.

Not-so-shy local

I love birds and cages, but not necessarily combined.  Love the painted boats on the top of this great cage.

Bali: The Gardens (Part One)

Since flying to Bali for my conference last Wednesday, flying back to Jakarta for a night to pack on Saturday, and now exploring Jogyakarta, I seem to have seen and done so much and have taken a huge number of photos. It is a challenge to group them into themes as the subjects range from temples to handicrafts to hotel interiors, and, strange as it may seem, many of these categories overlap. But I thought I would make a start with the wonderful gardens at the hotels I visited in Bali.  My conference was at the Ramada in Kuta, but on Friday, the girls (my project manager Ema and translator Steny) and I moved to the nearby but more economical Hotel Kendi Mas, and then we went up-market once again on Saturday when we lunched at the Hotel Tugu at Canggu Beach.

Each of the gardens had its own charms, and there are wonderful ideas to take from all of them.

At the Ramada, I especially loved some of the planting combinations and the mix of warm and cool colours in the huge, beautifully maintained grounds.

The Pagoda Flower Clerodendrum paniculatum was a star (here with variegated Ophiopogon and red cordylines)

With plumbago and a red border

Blue ruellias with warm-toned cordylines, crotons, and ixora.

More ruellia, with dracaena, green cordylines and red cannas

They had some stunning potted Adeniums

Variegated pandanus

I have seen this in my local nursery, but I have forgotten the name.
(Thanks to Kacky at Vivero's garden I now know this is a Thryallis.)

Doesn't it look great planted next to red foliage.

Here lime foliage adds a zing to the garden bed...

and the pretty two-toned flowers are a bonus.
(Thanks to a post by Lotus Leaf at Garden Tropics, I can belatedly provide the name to accompany this pretty flower - Pseuderantermum reticulatum,  known in Southern India as Gokarna jasmine.)

Cool whites and mauves, courtesy of the orchids...

And a sizzling Heliconia rostrata.

I hope you enjoyed the tour, and, no, I couldn't sign off without a water feature, especially in Bali!